Mount Huntington
Highest point
Elevation12,241 ft (3,731 m)[1]
Prominence2,890 ft (880 m)[1]
Coordinates62°58′02″N 150°53′55″W / 62.96722°N 150.89861°W / 62.96722; -150.89861
Geography
Mount Huntington is located in Alaska
Mount Huntington
Mount Huntington
Alaska
CountryUnited States
StateAlaska
BoroughMatanuska-Susitna
Protected areaDenali National Park and Preserve
Parent rangeCentral Alaska Range
Topo mapUSGS Talkeetna D-2
Climbing
First ascent25 May 1964 by Jacques Batkin and Sylvain Sarthou
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb

Mount Huntington is a striking rock and ice pyramid in the central Alaska Range, about eight miles (13 km) south-southeast of Denali. It is also about six miles (10 km) east of Mount Hunter, and two miles west of The Rooster Comb. While overshadowed in absolute elevation by Denali, Huntington is a steeper peak: in almost every direction, faces drop over 5,000 feet (1,520 m) in about a mile (1.6 km). Even its easiest route presents significantly more technical challenge than the standard route on Denali, and it is a favorite peak for high-standard technical climbers.

Mount Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by a French expedition led by famed alpinist Lionel Terray, via the Northwest Ridge, from then on also called the French Ridge. The second ascent the following year, via the West Face/West Rib, is reported by David Roberts in The Mountain of My Fear. The mountain can be accessed either from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, on the north side of the mountain, or the Tokositna Glacier, on the south side.

Notable ascents

Popular culture

Characteristics of the mountain was the inspiration of the Paramount Pictures logo.

Gallery

References

  1. ^ a b "Mount Huntington". Bivouac.com. Retrieved 2013-12-23.
  2. ^ Roberts, David (1991). The Mountain of My Fear/Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative. Seattle, WA, USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-270-1.
  3. ^ Roberts, Jack (1979). "The Timeless Face: The North Face of Mount Huntington". American Alpine Journal. 22 (53). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 70–80. ISSN 0065-6925.
  4. ^ Thuermer, Angus (1979). "Huntington's Southeast Spur". American Alpine Journal. 22 (53). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 81–89. ISSN 0065-6925.
  5. ^ Huntington's East Face, Roger Mear, Alpine Climbing Group
  6. ^ Quirk, James (1990). "Moose's Tooth and Huntington". American Alpine Journal. 32 (64). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 43–49. ISBN 0-930410-43-2.
  7. ^ Derek Franz, The 'Gauntlet': Two Americans make first ascent of Huntington's Complete South Ridge, alpinist.com, May 4, 2017.

Further reading